Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Chapter 15


January found us busy moving me from the rental apartment to Florida’s salacote. I happened to find a fellow from Sweden that was looking for just the apartment I had, and he wanted to rent it year round, even though he would be there only 4 months each year, being a farmer back home. So, I needed a new home. Florida suggested her salacote.


I think I already published a picture of the salacote, but, here it is again (above).


This is the front entrance on the left, kitchen on the right

This is the kitchen, fondly known in the Philippines as the dirty kitchen, as it is normally outside the home and is fueled by wood (there is a normal kitchen in the house). Filipinos are amazing adept at cooking on these fires. At my previous home (next door), the folks in front cooked every meal on wood fires, as well as the neighbors.





If you will notice, the salacote walls are not really walls but made of bamboo strips, and many of them are missing to allow smoke to escape.

This salacote is 228 square feet. It does not have a CR (bathroom) however there is one in the next building, which is the laundry room.

We changed the salacote a bit, as there was no view of the ocean although it sat next to the ocean. Filipinos are a bit strange in that they live on the ocean front but build a fence that blocks the view. They say it is because they don’t want prowlers, and that may be true, but I believe they also build the fence to calm one of their suspicions, which is that the ocean wind will force air into your body.

Yup, that is their belief. Even though you might laugh when they tell you that, they will insist it is so. I even tried to bring the subject of their fishermen being constantly in the middle of the winds, but with much shrugging of the shoulders it was dismissed. It is not unusual to see someone wearing a cloth over their head to ward off the wind, even at sleep.

This picture shows the family fence at low tide. Towards the right you will see an open door, which is the opening to the family lot directly in the center of the property. Just to the left is a barely visible roof, which is the salacote. By the way, there are typically 2 structures outside the family homes here: the salacote, which is basically an outside living room, and the waiting shed, which is typically near the front of the property, facing the road, where people will sit to watch traffic, or visitors wait to be received.


The first thing we did is to remove half the bamboo on the ocean side to allow the breeze to enter the building (against every Filipino objections, including Florida, but she remained quiet when I said it must be done). Next on the agenda was to introduce a bamboo door leading to the ocean, and it ended up being a Dutch door, quite possibly the first one in Bohol, if not the entire Philippines. As mosquitoes can be a problem, I purchased $3 worth of mosquito netting and tacked that across each window, which results in a blue haze across the windows but defies the mosquitoes! The last step was to remove the fence, thereby opening up a superb vista.

The original cost of the salacote was 15,000 pesos, which is a huge amount to spend on a salacote, but is only $326. My remodeling brought that sum up a further 900 pesos, a staggering sum of $19.56 and left us with this:

Even though we were protected from the mosquitoes, Florida refused to sleep without a mosquito net, having slept under one for her 40 years of life. So, I adapted, but uneasily. They can be too hot, they block the breezes. But, I had an excellent time for the month we stayed there, and fully enjoyed the strong ocean winds, and the sound of the tides blocking out all of the sounds, including the trucks on the roads and Stefanny’s extremely loud and irritating singing to the video-oke. The sound of the ocean sooths like nothing else; the view is superb, all the way to the end of the world. A view of the end of my world.

That’s right, only a month.


We were searching for a home for a friend of ours, a Brit and his girlfriend, and happened across a home that became available just across the street, on the pathway to the family mountain property. As it only had one bedroom (but another room that could be adapted for a second bedroom) and a concrete floor, it would not have been acceptable to our friends (at least not James anyway, but his girlfriend Shirley was ready to accept anything at this point). So we took it and moved out of the salacote.

I miss that salacote.

We now live in a home of 523 square feet, and we are very, very comfortable. The first thing we did, aside from cleaning of course, was to purchase another $20 of mosquito netting. Believe it or not, within 2 weeks I had convinced Florida to stop using the mosquito netting over the bed. When she had traveled to Hong Kong to work, she took her mosquito net with her, and slept under it the entire 10 years. We no longer have to suffocate at night now!

No air conditioning, which strikes my fancy anyway, as it is basically the same temperature year round, 86°. We do get some foot traffic past the house, virtually 2 feet or less away, but mostly it is people that live in the neighborhood, so we know most of them. We have conversations with them while they pass by (except for me, I don’t know Cebuano yet).

Electricity shuts down frequently, sometimes 3 times a day. They call it a brownout, but refuse to understand the difference between brownouts and blackouts. Creates havoc on the computer systems.

After a couple weeks of cleaning and fixing the house, as well as the yard (miniscule), I became a bit bored. Of course, I have my music. Some of you may know that I collect music, and presently have some 30,000 tracks or more on my computer. Most of the artists are not recognizable, as they are up-and-comers, or want to be. I do have the odd Madonna and Steely Dan, but the vast majority is the unknowns. I have been spending a lot of time categorizing and researching additional information on the artists and recordings and putting into playlists. I absolutely abhor public radio, far too many commercials and verbal nonsense, and I don’t like hearing the same song 4 times each day, every day for months. I can listen for 8 hours a day and not hear the same song again until 8 months later. And no commercials.

Due to unforeseen hiccups, and my steadfast refusal to back up properly periodically, my collection had become a travesty, a burning issue with me.

So, I have spent many hours reconstructing my past accomplishments. Not having an internet connection here has caused an extremely difficult situation; I have chosen to ignore all the free (legally free) music out there until we finally get an internet connection. The past year one of the providers has spent the year laying cable alongside the road. The town before us (Jagna, pronounced Hagna), and the town after us (Gundulman, pronounced Gun-DUL-man) are connected but we are not.

But, one cannot live their life constantly behind the computer screen (unless they are getting paid for it) and as Filipino life is typically spent outside 75% of the 24 hour period (and most sleeping in bamboo huts), I began to look at the lot behind our house, which has coconuts on it, and a huge amount of weeds. I cleaned that lot in a few days, and got huge compliments from lots of neighbors (including one statement that they have to thank that foreigner for cleaning up their back yards), except for the one family that used to dump their garbage there. Now that it is clean, it looks almost like a park, and that family changed directions for their garbage trekking.

Once again, I began looking for a small escape. Florida had some seeds she wanted to put on her father’s mountain property, so we went there one Sunday in late February. Sitting at the bottom of the property (the top is approximately 200 feet above the bottom (I am guessing, it could be 800 feet, I only know it was very much inaccessible), but it is at a 50° to 70° climb to the top. Florida had never been there, in fact, only her brother seems to have made the trip, and that was as a young man.

Hmmm. That got me thinking.

That very day I started to build a path up the mountainside (or more accurately, the hillside, which is part of the mountain range behind us). I had a bolo knife (known by most of the world as a machete, but here it is a bolo) that the landlady had left in the store room, so I began in earnest.

Just so you know there are left and right handed bolos, as well as bolos specifically for digging, specifically for chopping trees, specifically for grass cutting and specifically for chopping weeds. I still don’t know what type I have, but it seems to work well at cutting trees (small trees).

So I started immediately.

An hour later I was totally exhausted, having cleared at almost 3 feet.

We went home, and without bothering to shower, I hit the sack for an hour.

Florida had a big laugh over that, which of course incensed me to no end.

We returned the following day, and another hour and a further 5 feet, I was exhausted again.

You have to understand that this is the jungle. Or the forest. Or both. Kind of a cross between the two. Hard and soft wood trees, thistles, raspberry bush-type vines, vines as thick as your forearm, vines wrapping themselves around other vines, sometimes as many as 6 or 7 vines intertwined, pythons, boas, nasty spiders, mosquitoes, bees, ferocious ants and strange folks walking through the wilderness.

Maybe it should be called fungle.

Because it is forest, jungle and fun. One of the benefits of working for most of your adult life pushing pencils across the desk, and occasionally wadding up paper to throw at the basket is that you dream about actually seeing the completion of your accomplishments. It is amazing how one can chop and sweat for an hour, and then look back and see that a pathway 3 or 4 feet long has been accomplished, and be bursting with pride.

It might have been only in the movies, but, Tarzan was actually able to commute via vines, although some seem to be quite brittle.

On the second day, Joshua asked his mother why I wasn’t afraid of the snakes. She of course, didn’t know. When she told me, I asked ‘What snakes?’ Since then I have done a lot of thrashing about, letting everyone/thing know I am coming, before I take the next step.

I spent days doing that until I reached the halfway point. I sat down to rest in a clear spot, and Florida came looking for me to make sure I had not escaped this earthly place. While we were sitting there, I was mentally contemplating whether to continue or not, as it seemed I would never reach the top. I was about to propose that we find another endeavor, when 6 teenagers crossed the opposite hillside. As the last one passed by, about 150 feet away, he spotted me, stopped, and then called to his friends that there was a white man on the mountain. They all came back to gaze at the sight.

That was a challenge.

Apparently the long noses never actually work, they just order the work to be done.

If the Filipinos can do it, I can do it.

I continued working for the top a few more days, finally reaching my goal. I called down to Florida to come quickly and as soon as she got there, I pushed her ahead so she would be the first to visit the top.

2 feet later she stopped, as she could not proceed any further.

But we were at the top! I managed to push our way a bit further, maybe 4 feet, but it was so dense with saplings and brush we could not go any further. Little did we know that we passed a fallen togus tree, with a diameter of 4 feet and a length of at least 50 feet, and we were within 3 feet of it without seeing it!

Since then, we have been to the top everyday for the last 2 months, except for 4 days. Each day, climbing to the top, and then clearing the land, spending between 4 to 6 hours each day. After the first few days, I decided to find another way to the top, on the other side, which faced our home. We found a few paths, tried them all and eventually picked one to use, unfortunately the steepest one, but the quickest ascent. Yesterday we were coming back down the mountain, and a neighbor was at the bottom cutting bamboo. He was totally aware of the land on the other side, doing odd-jobs for the family that sometimes consisted of cutting their bamboo on the other side.

His facial features were classic, as he could not imagine Florida, let alone a long nose, descending the mountain on that side.

Occasionally I have dug a few steps into the dirt and stone to make it easier, but, it still is a tough climb. I have to rest halfway now, and then again once we get to the top. Going down is not too bad at all, so I was not winded when he saw us.

After about 8 days of chopping at the top, Florida turned to me with a quizzical look and asked where the ocean was, as we still had not seen it. Folks, the top of this ebabou is not all that big, maybe 30 yards side to side.

So I began to make a narrow pathway towards the ocean, which took the rest of the morning. I saw a glimpse of the ocean and decided that was enough for one day. I didn’t tell Florida because you really had to imagine that the blue was the ocean, not the sky.

The next day I widened the end of the pathway enough to confirm that it was indeed the ocean, and called Florida to finally see it. We saw about a 6 foot square ‘screen’, but it was enough to decide we were doing the right thing.

It was on that new approach path on the first day that we found the first concrete surveyor’s mark that indicated the corner of her father’s property. There are about 6 posts we figure, but it took almost 2 months before we found the second one. And, Murphy’s Law then took over.

We had cleared quite a lot of land, but all but 10 square feet was beyond her father’s property.

So, I was quite concerned that 1) the owner would be quite upset, and 2) we would be sued for damages. But it seems I was worrying for nothing. Here in the Philippines, it is not unusual for one to chop down someone else’s trees, especially if the land is neglected. Believe me, this land was neglected.

But, we still have not found the other 4 cement markers. But we know we are trespassing, but even more importantly, we don’t care.

Round about the end of the second month we began to get visitors. Most of them said they never bothered to come up there because the growth was so dense that it was almost impossible to move. Actually, it was so dense that when we first got there, we never saw any birds. In fact, it was only after 2 months that the birds began to arrive. And now they are here, and they are beautiful. And butterflies started to appear.

Florida’s father’s friend appeared and he was astounded with the difference. He insisted that we must have hired a local to help clear the land, regardless of how much Florida told him we did it alone, me being a long nose. She finally admitted that we had a hired hand (lied). He was satisfied then.

Each day we go to the top, taking 2 backpacks with us, laden with water, bolos, ax, snacks and my hammock. After the first 2 weeks Florida started to build a waiting shed, which has now grown into a rather nice resting place. It is made of 2 live trees, a few chopped saplings, and lots of ferns for the roof. Each day we hang my hammock, and I rest from time to time depending on how my body reacts. Sometimes Joshua comes with us, sometimes the other children, like Stefanny (she is absolutely no help whatsoever) and Lester (he has a nickname – Tibor – no one knows what that means, but it fits him) when he is here. He is a huge help. I am surprised at Joshua, he has never been asked, but as soon as he arrives, he begins to work. 7 years old.

Chop, chop, chop. Pull, pull, pull. Burn, burn, burn. Done with that? Repeat. Over and over and over and over.

At the end of each day, I am black with soot, having moved the remains of yesterday’s fire to the new fire place. Remember when you were allowed to burn leaves? It is a national pastime here. Everyone does it, and takes absolutely no safety measures in doing so. Amazingly, there are no fungle fires. Florida laughs and laughs, apparently I look like the Muslems when they have their festivities and dance in the street, soot marks all over me. But, she has hot water waiting for me every evening.

During April and May the water stops running at 5:30am, starts again slowly at 1pm, but shuts off at 2pm until about 7pm at night. This is because it is the summer here, school is out, and with the normal low pressure, everyone using the water during the day causes these problems. School resumes the first week of June, and the water will return to its normal low pressure, meaning no water after 7am, back on about 1pm.

When we moved here I installed a shower head. I don’t even use it any more. A 5 gallon bucket of water and a teapot full of hot water does the trick, and is becoming more preferential.

Who needs modern conveniences? But, if I build a place, I will install a tank above ceiling height, and pump water there every evening. Gravity is cheap.

Back to the mountain. My body hurts every single day. I have scratches all over my arms and legs, it looks like I ran into an irate cat.

Remember when you would start a new labor-intensive project? You hurt for a few hours, or even a few days, then it was over.

It ain’t over when you are on the fading side of 63.

Let me give you some advice if you are almost 64 years old and have spent your life

sitting at a desk and now decide to clear a jungle:

DON’T

Not unless you are prepared to suffer for a lengthy period of time.

I hurt every day. My muscles ache. My bones hurt. I can’t find a proper place to lay and sleep. I can’t find a proper place to sit and eat my dinner. I can’t find a proper stance to even stand at rest. I can’t think properly. Don’t confuse me with facts. Don’t expect a lengthy span of attention. Don’t expect me to put the cap back on the milk bottle. Or put the lid down on the toilet. Or make any intelligent conversation.

Every night Florida rubs my body with a local herbal concoction, made with coconut oil and 3 different types of tree bark. It costs 200 pesos per pint ($4.35) and lasts about a month. If there was a way to package this and export it, I would do it, but the manufacturer (Mike, our neighbor) won’t say boo about what the tree bark is. I have even less arthritis pain and aches now. I suggested it to my neighbor, Ken, who has had bad back problems. Within a week he was singing about its virtues.

I gotta tell you about Florida. I should have told you before but I wasn’t sure it was true. You know how it is with a new relationship.

I now know it true, that she is the woman she seems to be.

You have never met a gentler soul. Every situation is met with calmness. People come to her for her advice, from local tax matters to how to feed medicine to a 2 year old.

Each day she makes sure I take extra clean t-shirts to take up the mountain. And she forces me to change them as soon as she sees the slightest perspiration. And she puts a Turkish towel on my neck, under my shirt, to soak up the sweat. She always packs snacks that I like, that lend to my diabetic situation. She watches what I eat, she makes sure I rest enough. I cannot do too much around the house, or the mountain, for that matter. I want to oil the chains on the motorbikes, she does it. I want to clean the bikes, she does it. I want to plant some vegetables, but she does it. She scolds me when she thinks I am overworking. She doesn’t allow helping in the kitchen, it is her kitchen. She boils water twice a day for my bathing. Every morning she collects Sambong and Myabana leaves for a tea that cleanses the system. I call it the tree tea. Every single utensil we have is covered each day after being used, the electrical plugs being removed from the receptacle. A fresh cover is put over the bed every day. Not one piece of clothing is to be worn twice, irrespective of it being worn once for only 2 hours.

I am an ornery, obnoxious, opinionated and out-of-ordinary individual. I will complain even if there is no need. I will act angry. I will want everything my way, after all, I deserve it, don’t I? I know everything, and my decisions will obviously be the correct one, so why argue. Hey! I am human, right?

I have no idea how she handles me, or why, but she does.

And all she has to do is flash that huge smile.


Although she has a child, I seem to be her one priority. She is a terrific mother, don’t get me wrong. But she has made me feel like I am and always have been the number one. Maybe that is why I have been working so hard.

I wish that everyone could meet her. She is an extremely simple-living woman, one that is as happy as anyone you have ever met. Have some adversities facing you? Learn from Florida.

She calms the soul.

I have taken a city girl (albeit familiar with what we consider country-ways) and forced her into the mountains. And she does a superb job, she matches me chop by chop, minute by minute, and even surpasses me (ok, I really have a difficult time admitting that, so give me credit already).

But don’t tell her.

But, as with even the most perfect relationships, there are conflicts. As an example, English is not her first language, in fact, she probably knows Mandarin better, having spent 10 years in Hong Kong. Communications go like this: “Do you want to go to town this morning or this afternoon?” “Yes.”

Or, “Mumble rumble giggle greek tree (all to the tune of the passing motorist’s horns, other people trying to talk over her, etc) jumble shumble.” “Tree what?” “Tree.” What tree?” “That tree.” “Oh, that tree. What about that tree?” “That’s the one.” “One what?” “Like the one in the mountain” “What one in the mountain?” “The one you asked about.” “Oh, which one?” “That one up there in the mountain.” “Oh. Can you show me tomorrow when we are there?” “Of course.”

Next day: “Which tree was it?” “What tree?” “The tree you told me about yesterday.” “Which one was that?” And it goes on…

Abbott and Costello.

Everyone is a she, regardless of their sex. Makes for confusing communications.

Florida is left handed. I am right handed, and the women I knew were right handed, including my mother. I am almost 64, and I believe I am part of the 80% of the men in the world that do things by rote, especially in the morning. I do not spend time at the mirror, except to shave, and then I do not see my face, only the razor. I put my pants on left leg first (ok, you smart guys in lab coats, glasses, pad and pencil and unruly hair, have a field day with that one), then the right. I don’t have to decide whether to put the sock or the shoe on first; I put the left sock on then the right before I put on the left shoe and then the right shoe. That is the way I get dressed in the morning, that is the way I always have gotten dressed since I learned how to do it myself.

Go ahead.

Tomorrow morning, change the leg you put into your pants first to the other leg.

I bet your day will be slightly off-kilter all day.

Now, I have to get used to a left handed life.

It took me several days to realize why my underwear was on backwards.

Another thing that happened on the hill/mountain: I must have brushed against a weed that acts like nettles. I say act, as it is not entirely like nettles. I was in agony for almost 2 weeks. Nettles hurt a day or two, maximum.

I tried everything, from antibacterial cream from the good ole US of A to baby powder. We finally called in a quack doctor, who happened to be Florida’s auntie. She came and made me sit down so she could reach the back of my head and blow on it then mutter some sort of words. She then blew on my arms, where the affliction was, and to be safe, my legs. She then had Florida halve a coconut, and put pieces of the one half into the other and start them afire. Once they reached the coal stage, she dropped some sort of stones into it, which immediately started to smoke. Fanning the smoke around me, especially on my arms, the incense-like smell became a little too much. But, soon it was over, and she said she would be back for the next 2 days to perform the same ritual, and I would be cured.

So she came back for 2 days and the same rituals were performed. On the last day she gave me a little packet, about 2 inches square, made of some sort of cloth, with something sewn inside. She told me that I must always keep that in my pocket when I left the house, it would protect me from bad people. So I keep it in my pocket. So far I haven’t met any bad people.

A week later the itching finally subsided.

They actually call them quack doctors here. This one is Florida’s father’s sister. She is a withered, weathered little lady of about 86, a veritable ancient one here in the Philippines. She learned the art from her father; Florida’s father was not interested. Apparently she has trained her eldest daughter to take over from her. Quack doctors are big here. The fellow that worked on my back in December was also a quack doctor, specializing in body massages, and was training his wife. When he would start on my back, he would draw a figure of some sort on my backbone, just below the neck, and mutter something.

Quack doctors don’t have a set rate, you are to determine what to pay them. I am sure I will have more stories to tell you in the future because of this, both the cost and the practice.

Superstition. Huge.

We have a small mayonnaise jar at each door, and each window full of water, with no top on it. This is to keep bad people out of the house.

When we moved in there was garlic at each window. Keeps the snakes out.

You ask, has there ever been a snake in a house? No one seems to know, although there have been reports of snakes in the waiting sheds or salacotes. Especially if there are chickens nearby. Maybe no reports because everyone has garlic in their windows. No snakes so far in our house even though we have removed the garlic.

We have talked about building a waiting shed or even a salacote on top the mountain. We spend every day here, it is our day house. Long range plans include a windmill for a well (eventually) as well as electricity (via the windmill). I am told that to protect the salacote, we should hire the quack doctor that performs spells. Should someone break into the salacote to steal something, the spell temporarily makes the person go crazy. He will walk around in circles for the next 24 hours, not able to find his way from the salacote. If you do not return within those 24 hours, he will eventually be cleansed of the spell and will no longer be there, so you want to go there each day to find the crazy man. The cost for that spell is 500 pesos ($10.86), a set price. But it is only good for one-time, gotta pay again for the next burglar.

Be best to visit every 24 hours.

Itching. A couple weeks after the itching episode, I contracted it again. This time I have narrowed it down to a type of brush/weed that seems to like to take over wherever there is a lack of trees. But, this time, on the second day of itching, I happened to look at the spot on my arm under a bright light, and saw what looked to be a hair across the itching. Turns out (under a magnifying glass) it isn’t a hair, but some sort of thorn-like thing. I took it out with a tweezers.

No itching.

Let me interject something here now. It will, from now on, be called the mountain, or better yet, the ebabou (eee-ba-bow – bow as in bow before the queen) even though it is more like a hillside due to its height, and actually, is part of a ridge. If I were a geologist, I would hesitate to call it a mountain, or even a ridge. Actually, if I was a geologist, I would definitely not propose that this ridge was once connected to the ridge behind this ridge. And, if I was a geologist, I would for sure not propose that a combination of ocean and earthquake caused the split.

I am not a geologist, so hear me out, and I will say this without recrimination.

This ridge was part of the ridge behind it, tens of thousands of years ago, and was most likely split by two forces, the ocean and an earthquake. My observations show that the shape and height of the ridge in question is almost exactly the same as the ridge behind it. Furthermore, the Philippine Islands are volcanic, and suffer as much as 20 earthquakes a day, although most of them are minor and not felt by humans. Down at the family coast, there is some bedrock seen at low tide. The bedrock for the most part is absolutely flat, but for a stretch of about 30 feet the bedrock is tilted at about 30°. Sorry folks, that isn’t done by the wind or the water.

To add to that, on the 4th day we went to the top, I found a piece of rock I thought was petrified honeycomb. On second look, I found it looked exactly like the coral I had seen while snorkeling 20 yards off the beach at Florida’s mother’s home.

The coconut trees on Florida’s father’s side of the mountain, which faces the mountains that I believe were attached thousands of years ago, do not grow well, and have very small coconuts, if any at all. It is entirely possible that when the ocean receded, at that time or shortly after is when the earth moved, so to speak. And, as everyone knows, salt helps the coconuts grow properly.

Did you know that the papaya tree is hollow down the entire center of the tree?

Speaking of snorkeling, I went with my Brit friend, John, in January. I had never snorkeled (except as a kid in fresh water). If you have never snorkeled, be aware that in salt water, breathing in is not advised when the little ball is below the surface of the water. The salt water is disgusting. But, if you want to see some of the most beautiful live things you have ever seen, go snorkeling here, or somewhere there is a coral reef. My friend has spent almost every vacation of his life snorkeling around the world. He says the coral reef here is equal to every place he has been, and is virtually undefiled.

If you can, see if you can find the BBC Blue Planet series. The entire series would cost you $75 (I think I bought mine at a Discovery (?) store in some mall in the states), and consists of 4 DVDs, each of which has a couple excerpts on it. I was living in England when it was produced on BBC, and if you know anything about British drinking, you will know that nothing stands in the way of meeting at the pub each evening for several pints.

The first night of the first chapter of The Blue Planet, the pubs were filled as normal. For every single chapter after that, the pubs were empty. If you don’t have the $75, steal it, or copy it illegally, or even try the library! It is one of the most riveting series you will ever see, and took years to film. At least check out the Coral Seas so you know that if you come here, you will see what you see in that series. You won’t be bored.

Did I ever tell you I owned a pub in England for awhile?

But, back to the fungle and the ebabou.

While I was suffering from that nettle-like attack, I was told about the White Lady. The White Lady lives in the fungle, and is rarely seen, but is everywhere. She seems to be the authority on fungle issues, and is the one responsible to see that invaders behave themselves. I was told that if I even wanted to answer the call of nature, I must call out ‘Excuse Me’ prior to answering that call.

So I do.

Hey, I am a foreigner living here now, so I adapt.

I am very pleased to announce that I am able to put that age-old question about the noise a tree may or may not emit if falling down if no one is in the forest.

I was chopping down a hardwood tree called a Mardikakao (mar-di-ka-kow) about 1 foot in diameter. I know, not a huge tree. But a damned hard one. I had been working on it each day, spending about 20 minutes hacking away at it with my bolo. Have you ever tried to cut down a 1 foot tree with a bolo? No? Then shut up. Yeah, ok, I hear you cynics in the background, get an ax, or even a chainsaw! I am in the Philippines, and if they can do it with a bolo, why can’t I? So shut up.

Anyway, each day for about a week I would chop away at this tree. I call it the Mardiculous tree, as it is one of the most ridiculous trees I have ever seen. It starts with a normal trunk, but then about 4 feet up, it starts to branch out, and the branches are quite thick. But somehow, within a foot of branching out, they begin to intertwine with each other. Where the branch eventually straightens out, there will be many sproutings of thin upward branches, reaching directly up for many feet because the original branch has bent over with the stress, eventually twisting to intertwine with other branches again. If you try to cut it down branch by branch, especially with a bolo, you could spend the rest of your life on one tree and never finish.

One of the most ugly trees I have ever seen. We have some beautiful trees here, like for example the acacia tree – absolutely gorgeous. And we have the epilepil (ee-pill-ee-pill) tree, a tall, softwood with delicate leaves, seems to let the sunlight bounce against itself, and offer a calming respite. And it grows extremely quickly. The epilepil shades you but lets the sun shine through enough to allow things to grow beneath its shadow.

Back to the Mardiculous tree. This one actually had grown some 6 feet before branching out, which it then produced some 20 trunk-like sprouts that almost equaled the trunk size.

Using my new-found knowledge of trees, their gravitatious (I know, not a word, but should be) tendencies, and the clearing of land in front of the tree to allow a safe landing, I began to whittle away at the offending structure. While the fresh sprouts can be extremely soft, the oldest parts are extremely hard and obnoxious, like some older people I know.

I carefully balanced my chopping between the attack side and the directing side, being conscious of the weight of this tree, which was about 40 feet in height. I cleared a reasonable site of land for the downfall, making sure I had an escape in case the trunk sprung to the backside, as they sometimes do.

The day came that after many hacks at the tree over many days, there started to sound a small creak, almost indiscernible, which made me stop in anticipation, standing aside of the tree, making sure I was not in the downfall area, but at the escape area.

I waited for almost a minute, and then hearing nothing, I tentatively hacked again. An extremely small crack was the result.

I waited again, next to the escape area.

It was a dark and windy day.

Storms were threatening but never delivered. I had calculated the prevailing winds, making sure that every factor was in my favor. I had made sure every hack at the tree was calculated to bring the utmost favor to the falling of the tree, in the proper position.

While I waited, I checked again to ensure that the winds were working properly.

They were.

Nothing happened.

One more hack, and a much louder crack sounded. I stepped back and anxiously watched the crevasse in the tree, and suddenly I saw it cracking, bending exactly towards me.

I jumped sideways and ran down the safe landing area as fast as I had ever run, the safety escape being the prime target of the fall.

I don’t believe I had ever run so fast before.

I suddenly ran past the safety zone, brush and thorns ripping my skin apart, and, as it is a fungle, 5 feet later ran into the edge of the fungle, an immense clear area.

So, I was outside of the forest, so to speak, breathing heavily and sweating profusely.

A very clear, loud, thunderous thunk sounded.

So, the age-old question has been solved.

Tell all those folks wasting your time with silly questions that they are now rendered useless, as the question has been answered once and for all.

On the rare day that we have not gone to the ebabou, we really don’t feel quite right. Up there we have virtually no noise that we have become accustomed to down at the house. The air is fresh, there is always a breeze, and we have a 360° view, the ocean to the east and south, the mountains to the north and west. We can even see Camiguin, the live volcanic island off the coast. Being up there is such a pleasant time, one longs to remain. Now I can see the end of my world further out.

I love this place. I love this life.

The election was yesterday. For the last 2 months there was excitement building, ad-hoc parades, loudspeakers blaring, mini-festivals, lots of discussions, and bribery. Florida had 12 positions to vote for in this election, and from the local candidates she received various sums of money or other products. In the beginning someone came to the door and gave her a package of medicine. Someone had painstakingly cut those foil packages one by one, and in this package was single pills, all different, but none of them had the name on the back, so one did not know what they were. She received anywhere from 20 pesos to 150 pesos (50 cents to $3), sometimes with more medicine. The incumbent mayor (also the rice buyer) gave 2 kilos of rice, about $2.50. Bribery is normal here. The opponent of the Ubay mayor has promised half his monthly salary to be returned to the population. Easy to say, the siphoning of the governmental money is far more lucrative than the monthly salary. There is an airport runway outside Ubay, built 30 years ago, and never finished. It is just long enough to park 4 helicopters on, no more than that. So, useless as an airport, but works well for feeding cows. Somebody has the rest of the money for that airport.

I have complained a bit about Stefanny (Filipino spelling) in this chapter.

There is one in every family.

Stefanny is Florida’s niece. She lives with her grandmother, Florida’s mother, while her mother, Atche, works on other islands and in other countries. Atche, if forced, would actually say she can’t handle her daughter either. Stefanny is 9 years old, and blames her behavior on the lack of a father and mother. Yet, we all know that is not the answer.

There is one in every family.

Grandmothers should be grandmothers; that is what they do best.

Stefanny needs discipline, but unfortunately doesn’t get any. She throws tantrums, demands attention, eats like it is her last meal (noisy, as everything else she does), walks through the house throwing things around, breaking things, terrorizing neighboring children, and has the most abrasive singing voice I have ever heard. To be fair, she can carry a tune, but you will end up wishing she would not. She has only one volume level: maximum. We can hear her at the top of the mountain. And she has no shame whatsoever about her actions.

There is one in every family.

And if you don’t know who I am talking about,

IT IS YOU!!!!!!

And, while I am complaining, I have to tell you about Noel, the nephew.

There is one in every family.

He borrows my jigsaw and drill, as he is doing a project, and then doesn’t return it for a month. When I ask him, he says he hasn’t gotten the wood yet to do the project. I have known him for more than 5 months, and he has, as of today, borrowed the jigsaw for the fifth time. Then he said he couldn’t do his project without the drill. The drill is way up the mountain, being used to build chicken houses at the moment. So he said he will take the jigsaw and wait for the drill. I asked him what he is doing.

You guessed it.

The same project from last November.

I asked if he has the wood now.

No.

He has a thousand or more ideas about making money, all of them do not entail labor. One of his latest is to install water bottles in schools to sell 1 cup of water at a time, the student pushes the button for a cup of coffee and deposits 1 peso in the moneybox. Right.

There is one in every family.

And if you don’t know what I am talking about,

IT IS YOU!!!!!!

And Grandma, dear, dear Grandma.

There is one in every family.

She is never at fault.

The food burns, it is the gas regulator. She forgets the milk, it is because a neighbor was talking to her at the market. She doesn’t buy the laundry soap, it is because they changed the layout of the store. The vegetables don’t grow right, it didn’t rain properly.

There is one in every family.

And if you don’t know what I am talking about,

IT IS YOU!!!!!!

So, I need to conclude this episode, but there are still a few things to tell you.

We had some bad news last week. Tonette, one of Florida’s younger sisters, called to say her husband Bert had died. He had been out in the field on Wednesday, he is a governmental worker working on the land division to the native Filipinos. He returned that evening and didn’t feel very well, but insisted he was ok. The next morning Tonette said he should go to the hospital, and of course he refused.

That evening he came home, sat down in his chair, asked for some milk, and then slumped over.

He was 57.

They would have celebrated their first anniversary later this month.

I knew he was diabetic, but I did not know he had only one kidney. I also knew he liked his tuba (coconut wine), but he should have known one kidney is not a good drinking foundation.

I liked him, having met him at the Christmas family doings, which lasted about 10 days. We did not have particularly deep conversations, but, you become very much aware, very quickly, of the members of a family you have just joined.

And in his own way, I will miss him.

I have recently gone through an experience with the Filipino Law. When I came here, I was in Ubay, with Didith. That eventually did not work out, and we separated.

Unfortunately she determined that everything I had owned rightfully belonged to her.

To make a long story short, that included items I have had for 20 years.

Against all advice given to me by foreigners and natives alike, including the lawyer, I filed suit. No foreigner has been known to win a case against a Filipino.

I cost me $2000, a tremendous sum of money here. But, against all odds, including the judge offering an excuse for Didith and her lawyer not showing up, I won eventually in the next hearing.

A great pressure has been relieved.

Everything I owned, that I brought here, was only things. But, I had gotten them for my enjoyment later in life, and intended on sharing them with my wife. But, that was not to be.

A little bit of history was made here.

Last but not least. I must apologize that I haven’t gotten a camera since I broke the old one, and now would have been a good time to publish some pictures, especially of the ebabou. I haven’t even tried to price one, or to see if the old one could be fixed. But, my mind has been involved with this suit, and there doesn’t seem to be much more room for those thoughts. Hopefully, now that it is over, I can resume my normal (inane) thoughts.

I hope to send many photos next time, not only of the ebabou, but (maybe hard to acknowledge based on my writings of Florida) of a new woman in my life, Babe.

If I can’t, it is not my fault.